Maintaining Your Pocket Revolver

My favorite carry revolver
My favorite carry revolver

Grant Cunningham has a new blog post specifically focusing on the steps you should be taking to maintain revolvers carried in the pocket. I strongly encourage you to read the article in full (link) but here are the highlights:

1) Choose a “hammerless” revolver
2) Always use a holster.
3) Take the gun out of the holster and the holster out of the pocket at night.
4) Brush away the lint every week or so
5) Inspect the gun carefully for corrosion when brushing it down
6) Take the grips off occasionally
7) Consider rubber grips
8) Leave a thin film of oil or CLP inside the barrel

Although I pocket carry quite a bit, I rarely pocket carry a revolver. For pocket carry my G42 and G43 fit better than any of my revolvers. A good pit of this advice applies just as much to semi-autos. Instead of removing the grips occasionally, for semi-autos I would suggest removing the magazine. Way back when I carried an LCP in my pocket I found that one of the magazines had started to rust while in the gun…

Any other helpful hints on maintaining a firearm carried in the pocket? Share them below.

God bless.

2 thoughts on “Maintaining Your Pocket Revolver

  1. As my father did, I too was known to Mexican Carry a 1911 in Condition One.
    The authorized off-duty/business attired weapon was the S&W Model 36. Owned quite a few as well as a number of S&W Model-10 service revolvers. For pocket carry, off-duty (“are you happy to see me?”), and for offside pocket carry inside of the Multi Season Duty Coat, I cannot stress enough, to have the revolver “De-Horned”. The Round Butt, is so much nicer in the pocket, and for myself, a Tyler-T, was all it needed. Same for ankle carry, small of the stomach carry, shoulder holster, strong side. Back then, depending on the assignment, I carried at times three to five revolvers and that was a lot of iron. Cleaning daily, where necessary or not is what I believe to be crucial. Removal of the side plate. Crane and cylinder comes out and off. Polishing the rebound slide. Honing the hammer block. Honing the hammer block channel. Have the revolver throated. Same with the forcing cone. Remove all foreign matter from the face of the cylinder. Remove all foreign matter from the forcing cone and top-strap gap just above the forcing cone. Remove all waste from the ejector rod assembly, and I used to remove the ejector rod from the cylinger, clean and inspect the spacers. I like, Tri-Flow lube. Different (weaker) formula today, but I like it all the same. Rust or gumming? Used Marvel Mystery Oil on a patch and on a wiper cloth. Leave wet for half hour, then rub the waste material off. No lube, no problem – use Marvel Mystery Oil. It smells pepperminty and I don’t care for that, but it works like a charm. Cold weather icy, used kerosene to clean the revolver and a #2 graphite pencil to dry lube the ejector rod. NEVER slam the cylinder shut or the ejector rod can bend, making the five-shot revolver a ONE SHOT DEAL.
    The J-Frame and the K-Frame revolvers are very nice, I personally favor the old, Pin Barrels. Formats are based upon simplicity. Partridge sights are my favorite and easy as pie to get used to. One of my favorite J-Frames, I had the hammer bobbed (before the NY-1 model came out), and the main spring needed to be made heavier to avoid light cartridge primer hits. I dry tested the spring by opening the cylinder, then pulling the thumbpiece back, and with a finger over the firing pin port, I pulled the trigger, making a nice mark on my finger (and it smarted). That revolver was always either on my ankle or carried offside in my left duty coat pocket. Why? Because during very iffy control car-stops, the perps always watched my right hand on the service revolver, but not once looked at my left hand inside my duty coat pocket, with a pointing revolver. Street Cop Tactics.


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